Mont Blanc has established it as a classic must-do climb, at the top of many mountaineers tic lists.
- Book Your Trip
Mount Logan at 19,551 feet (5,559 meters) is North America’s second highest peak, and Canada’s highest peak. Not only is Mt. Logan high, it just plain big! Mt. Logan is said to be the largest non-volcanic massif in the world. located in Kluane National park and surrounded by the world’s third largest glacial ice sheet (behind Antarctica and Greenland) The mountain is also very cold and often quite stormy.
We begin our trip in Whitehorse Canada, the capitol of the Yukon. We’ll do a gear check and some last minute shopping before jumping on a shuttle to the airstrip in Silver City near Haines Junction. In Silver City we’ll quickly organize our gear and flying by fixed wing into our basecamp on the Quintino Sella Glacier at approx. 9200’.
We’ll move up the mountain, often doing double carries, using up to 5 camps. Our high campwill be on the massive plateau, where temps are often 40-50 degrees F below 0. This plateau camp sits at approx. 16,500’ and only 3000’ from the summit.
This mountain is best done on skis, because it’s mostly fairly low angle (less than 35 degrees) and makes travel between camps and on descent fun and safe.
While the difficulty of climbing required on every trip is different, there are some basic skills that are required on any climbing trip. Every climber needs to be able to put on their own equipment correctly, as well as have basic understanding of climbing jargon adequate to follow your guides directions. Each climber needs to be able to tie a figure eight rethread knot as well as a clove hitch, and have basic belay and rappel experience.
If we are on glacier during the trip, you should have previous experience using crampons and ice axe, as well as training on self arrest. Crevasse Rescue training, while not required on every trip is a good skill every climber should have in their tool box.
This stuff can all be learned in a day or two out with an ITCOG guide or one of our colleagues. Get in touch and set up a training class today.
Each climb has a technical grade ranging from class 1 (hiking) to class 5 (technical rock climbing). Most of our Alpine offerings start at Class 3, which is described as scrambling on rock with the use of both feet and hands. Being comfortable moving in this terrain while being short roped or coached by a guide is our base line.
Many of our Alpine climbs require 5th class climbing, described as technical rock climbing. Terrain where you would not want to fall without a rope. The class is then divided by grades: 5.0 to 5.10 for example. You will need to climb proficiently at the grade of the objective for which you are signing up for. For example: The Matterhorn is rated 5.4, you will need to move at a good steady pace for 8-12 hours , up and down in 5.4 terrain. (please check out our climbing grades comparison chart at the end of this document.)
Most Summit days are big! On our alpine climbs you can expect to be moving at a steady pace for 8 to 14 hours. That’s a big time difference, I know! But that ultimately depends on you! A good guide won’t waste time, he/she sets good pacing and route finding sure! but your fitness and skill level will be the biggest determinate between a big and a huge day. Ultimately speed is safety. The longer you are out the more tired you become. Standard times on mountains are always a consideration and are generally adhered to.
A positive attitude, which includes being mentally prepared goes a long way in the mountains. But determination will only get you so far. I always ask people what their average week of exercise looks like, and what is their biggest day of exercise in the past year. I look for a regular exercise program of 2-3 days a week and many weekends. Having a big activity like; a big hike or a long run, or past experience Alpine climbing and mountaineering are good indicators for adequate fitness.
Many of our alpine climbs are above 14,000 feet. At these elevations the lack of oxygen getting into your lungs with each breath is a factor when considering fitness. The single greatest thing you can do to improve your performance at altitude, is to show up with a
strong heart! If you show up cardio fit. You should be pushing your cardio in the months and weeks prior to your climb. Your strong heart and lungs will adapt to altitude better than they otherwise would.
We have lot’s of experience helping people get fit for trips. The last thing in the world you want is for your fitness to stop you from doing your trip of a life time. We are happy to work with you to establish a training program that fits your goals and lifestyle. If you can make it to Salt Lake City, we would love to take you out and give you an idea of where you are at with your climbing ability and skills, as well as your over all fitness. Don’t forget if you have different abilities or a different agenda, we are always happy to do a private trip for you and your group.
- May - July
*Custom dates available