
Overview
Mount Logan at 19,551 feet (5,959 meters) is North America's second highest peak, and Canada's highest peak. Not only is Mt. Logan high, it's just plain big. Mt. Logan is said to be the largest non-volcanic massif in the world, located in Kluane National Park and surrounded by the world's third largest glacial ice sheet (behind Antarctica and Greenland). The mountain is also very cold and often quite stormy. We begin our trip in Whitehorse, Canada — the capital of the Yukon. We'll do a gear check and some last-minute shopping before taking a shuttle to the airstrip in Silver City near Haines Junction. In Silver City we quickly organize gear and fly by fixed-wing aircraft to our basecamp on the Quintino Sella Glacier at approximately 9,200 ft. We'll move up the mountain, often doing double carries, using up to 5 camps. Our high camp sits on the massive plateau at approximately 16,500 ft — only 3,000 ft from the summit — where temps are often 40–50°F below zero. This mountain is best done on skis, because the terrain is mostly low angle (less than 35 degrees), making travel between camps and the descent fun and safe. This is a serious expedition requiring prior mountaineering experience and strong fitness.
Highlights
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Itinerary
Arrive in Whitehorse, Yukon
Arrive in Whitehorse, the capital of the Yukon. Gear check and last-minute shopping.
Fly to Basecamp
Shuttle to the airstrip in Silver City near Haines Junction. Fly by fixed-wing aircraft to basecamp on the Quintino Sella Glacier at ~9,200 ft.
Basecamp Acclimatization
Settle into basecamp, review crevasse rescue and avalanche procedures, and begin acclimatizing.
Camp 1 Carry
First carry toward Camp 1. Begin moving the mountain's low-angle glacier terrain on skis.
Move to Camp 1
Establish Camp 1 and move up the glacier.
Camp 2 Carry
Double carry loads toward Camp 2, acclimatizing further.
Move to Camp 2
Full move to Camp 2. Terrain steepens slightly as we gain elevation.
Rest / Weather Day
Rest and acclimatize, or weather buffer. Storms are common on Logan.
Camp 3 Carry
Carry loads toward Camp 3 on the upper mountain.
Move to Camp 3
Move to Camp 3. Views from the upper Logan massif are extraordinary.
Rest / Acclimatization Day
Rest, acclimatize, and prepare for the push to high camp.
High Camp Carry
Carry loads to the plateau at ~16,500 ft where high camp will be established.
Move to High Camp
Full move to High Camp on the massive Logan Plateau at 16,500 ft. Temps often -40 to -50°F.
Rest Day at High Camp
Acclimatize and prepare for summit day. Final gear checks.
Summit Day
Summit push to 19,551 ft. Final 3,000 ft from high camp. Ski descent from summit back to high camp.
Descent to Basecamp
Begin the long ski descent through all camps back to basecamp.
Descent Continued / Basecamp
Continue descent and consolidate at basecamp.
Weather Reserve
Buffer day for fly-out weather windows, which can be unpredictable.
Fly Out to Silver City
Weather permitting, fly by fixed-wing back to Silver City.
Return to Whitehorse
Shuttle back to Whitehorse. Trip complete.
May – July
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