Mt. Logan Guided Climb & Ski - Kluane National Park, Yukon ski mountaineering guided expedition by In the Company of Guides
ALL EXPEDITIONS
skiKluane National Park, Yukon

Mt. Logan Guided Climb & Ski

ELEVATION19,551 ft
DURATION20 days
GRADEextreme
LOCATIONCanada
DATESMay – July

Overview

Mount Logan at 19,551 feet (5,959 meters) is North America's second highest peak, and Canada's highest peak. Not only is Mt. Logan high, it's just plain big. Mt. Logan is said to be the largest non-volcanic massif in the world, located in Kluane National Park and surrounded by the world's third largest glacial ice sheet (behind Antarctica and Greenland). The mountain is also very cold and often quite stormy. We begin our trip in Whitehorse, Canada — the capital of the Yukon. We'll do a gear check and some last-minute shopping before taking a shuttle to the airstrip in Silver City near Haines Junction. In Silver City we quickly organize gear and fly by fixed-wing aircraft to our basecamp on the Quintino Sella Glacier at approximately 9,200 ft. We'll move up the mountain, often doing double carries, using up to 5 camps. Our high camp sits on the massive plateau at approximately 16,500 ft — only 3,000 ft from the summit — where temps are often 40–50°F below zero. This mountain is best done on skis, because the terrain is mostly low angle (less than 35 degrees), making travel between camps and the descent fun and safe. This is a serious expedition requiring prior mountaineering experience and strong fitness.

Highlights

North America's second highest peak at 19,551 ft
Canada's highest mountain in Kluane National Park
Ski the world's largest non-volcanic massif
Fly-in glacier basecamp on the Quintino Sella Glacier
Up to 5 high camps — true expedition mountaineering
Best done on skis — low-angle terrain between camps, ski descent from high altitude
Surrounded by the world's third largest glacial ice sheet

Gallery

Group of skiers skinning above Arctic fjord on Mt. Logan Guided Climb & Ski expedition, Svalbard Norway
Ski mountaineers ascending steep couloir above Arctic sea in Svalbard, Norway
IFMGA guide bootpacking with skis on Svalbard summit ridge above ice-filled fjord
Ski touring group beneath dramatic rock spires in Svalbard Arctic wilderness
Ski tourers ascending glaciated terrain toward Svalbard summit with sea views
Arctic glacier calving face viewed from expedition vessel Ulla Rinman, Svalbard
Skier making turns on corn snow with panoramic Arctic landscape, Svalbard
Guides and clients at remote Svalbard ridgeline above frozen Arctic fjord
Sea-to-ski group skinning up Svalbard peak with icy fjord and glaciers below
Svalbard glacier and fjord landscape from ski touring approach, Arctic Norway
Skiers descending open snowfield above Arctic ocean in Svalbard

Itinerary

DAY 1

Arrive in Whitehorse, Yukon

Arrive in Whitehorse, the capital of the Yukon. Gear check and last-minute shopping.

DAY 2

Fly to Basecamp

Shuttle to the airstrip in Silver City near Haines Junction. Fly by fixed-wing aircraft to basecamp on the Quintino Sella Glacier at ~9,200 ft.

DAY 3

Basecamp Acclimatization

Settle into basecamp, review crevasse rescue and avalanche procedures, and begin acclimatizing.

DAY 4

Camp 1 Carry

First carry toward Camp 1. Begin moving the mountain's low-angle glacier terrain on skis.

DAY 5

Move to Camp 1

Establish Camp 1 and move up the glacier.

DAY 6

Camp 2 Carry

Double carry loads toward Camp 2, acclimatizing further.

DAY 7

Move to Camp 2

Full move to Camp 2. Terrain steepens slightly as we gain elevation.

DAY 8

Rest / Weather Day

Rest and acclimatize, or weather buffer. Storms are common on Logan.

DAY 9

Camp 3 Carry

Carry loads toward Camp 3 on the upper mountain.

DAY 10

Move to Camp 3

Move to Camp 3. Views from the upper Logan massif are extraordinary.

DAY 11

Rest / Acclimatization Day

Rest, acclimatize, and prepare for the push to high camp.

DAY 12

High Camp Carry

Carry loads to the plateau at ~16,500 ft where high camp will be established.

DAY 13

Move to High Camp

Full move to High Camp on the massive Logan Plateau at 16,500 ft. Temps often -40 to -50°F.

DAY 14

Rest Day at High Camp

Acclimatize and prepare for summit day. Final gear checks.

DAY 15

Summit Day

Summit push to 19,551 ft. Final 3,000 ft from high camp. Ski descent from summit back to high camp.

DAY 16

Descent to Basecamp

Begin the long ski descent through all camps back to basecamp.

DAY 17

Descent Continued / Basecamp

Continue descent and consolidate at basecamp.

DAY 18

Weather Reserve

Buffer day for fly-out weather windows, which can be unpredictable.

DAY 19

Fly Out to Silver City

Weather permitting, fly by fixed-wing back to Silver City.

DAY 20

Return to Whitehorse

Shuttle back to Whitehorse. Trip complete.

FROM$9,000 / person

May – July

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