Mt. Tyree, Antarctica

Overview

Standing at 15,919 feet, Tyree is the second highest mountain on the continent of Antarctica. This striking peak in the Ellsworth Mountains — not far from Mt. Vinson — has seen very little traffic over the years. On our ascent in 2021 we were the eighth party to climb the mountain. This expedition is remote and secluded and only for the most motivated and hardy climbers. Temperatures on this mountain are commonly -20°F and often even colder. Summit day will take 18–24 hours and involves 20+ pitches of belayed climbing going up, and 20+ rappels on descent. We begin our trip in Punta Arenas, Chile, where we do a gear check and briefing with the logistics company Antarctic Logistics and Expeditions (ALE). Once the weather window opens, we board a 757 for the four-hour flight "onto the ice," landing at the ALE remote camp on Union Glacier in western Antarctica — a full-service camp complete with a dining hall, showers, a skiway, and Twin Otter airplanes. Depending on weather and timing, we may board Twin Otters quickly and fly directly to Vinson Basecamp. While not mandatory, acclimating on Mt. Vinson — Antarctica's highest peak — is the most convenient option and a natural addition to the trip. If you've already climbed Vinson, there may be an option to attempt a new route on Mt. Shinn, Antarctica's third highest peak. Once fully acclimated, we catch another Twin Otter flight to the Patton Glacier, which sits at the base of the French Route (also known as the NE Couloir) on the northeast side of Mt. Tyree. Here we establish basecamp. Our first carry goes to the high camp bivy at the top of the NE Ridge — a spectacular stretch of easy mixed climbing with dramatic views. Once loads are cached, we return to basecamp and wait for our weather window. The move from basecamp to high camp covers approximately 3,000 vertical feet and takes 4–6 hours. We rest, eat, and rise early for the summit bid. Bivy to summit: 10–14 hours. Descent back to bivy: 8–12 hours. Total summit day: 18–26 hours. The following day we sleep in and descend to basecamp (2–5 hours). ───────────────────────────── THE SKI LINE — AN UNFINISHED CHAPTER Mt. Tyree has never been skied. It remains one of the most compelling unskied objectives on the planet — a peak so rarely climbed that only a handful of teams have stood on its summit, yet plainly visible from the Patton Glacier is a giant couloir dropping off the looker's left side of the face. From the right conditions and the right skier, this line represents a first descent that would enter the record books. This is not an objective for every applicant. I am looking for one partner with a proven high-mountain and technical ski résumé — someone who has charged serious lines at altitude and knows how to make sound decisions when the terrain is unforgiving. If that's you, reach out. Tell me where you've been and what you've skied, and let's have a conversation.

Highlights

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