We will meet in Chamonix, France for our training and acclimatization. Chamonix, in the heart of the Alps, is a hub of alpine climbing and the perfect setting to prepare for our main objective. Climbing the Eiger via the Mettellegi ridge is a technical and committing climb. Once we begin our summit push it is easier to go up and over, than it is to retrace our steps. Therefore, thorough preparation is imperative to our ultimate success. We don’t have specific objectives during these four days, instead, we will choose routes and objectives based on conditions and your needs. That said, we will focus on rock movement both up and down, as well as transitions and repelling. We will spend 2 nights in mountain huts to help us acclimate to the altitude so we can move efficiently on summit day.
We begin our climb of the Eiger from the town of Grindelwald Switzerland, where we board the Jungfrau Railway. This famous train winds its way, literally through the mountains of the Monch and Eiger where eventually we disembark at the Eismeer station. Here we access a tunnel that leads to a door out of the mountain, from which we rappel onto the glacier. We then rope up and cross the glacier, quickly reaching a rock cliff that we must traverse and climb to the Mittellegi hut. At the Mittellegi hut, we rest and spend a short night before heading for the summit.
With similar technical difficulties as the Matterhorn, the Eiger has none of the crowds that you often find on the Hornli ridge, as the Mittellegi hut holds only 40 people. We awake early to freshly baked bread, hot drinks and Muesli to fuel us for our climb. As dawn approaches we set off on a fantastic ridge climb with breathtaking views down into the valley below, the north face chattering with constant rockfall to our right and the sunny Oberland cheering us on to our left. Solid rock and moderate technical difficulties make this climb enjoyable with every step to the summit.
From the summit, as always, our journey is only halfway through. But this climb is unique because we traverse the summit and descend the South Ridge, rather than returning the way we came up. Rappelling and down climbing to the glacier before reaching the Jungfraujoch, where we can rest and grab a beer or coffee before loading on the train that will take us back to where we began. The climb will take 2 days Gwinderwald to Gwinderwald and will be a highlight of your climbing memoirs.
Arrive in Chamonix the evening before. We will talk the evening before to make sure you’re all set for our week.
Training climbs around Chamonix with 2 nights in huts.
We will catch an early morning train to Gwinderwald, continuing on the Jungfrau Railway. We will arrive at the Mittellegi hut early afternoon.
Summit and descend to the train and continue our journey back to Chamonix.
Included in Cost
- Group gear
- IFMGA Mountain Guide
- Liability Insurance
- Guide Expenses
Note Included in Cost
- Hotel & hut accommodations
- Transportation between
- Personal gear