Carstensz-Pyramid

  • Trip Overview
  • Trip Outline
  • Itinerary
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Much of West Papua were among the very last areas of the world to be mapped. There are people deep in the jungles of Papua, who have never experienced the modern world. Carstensz Pyramid is the highest peak in the oceanic continent and one of the seven summits. This limestone massif rises out of a lush jungle, and one of the worlds most profitable and secretive gold mines.

There are people deep in the jungles of Papua, who have never experienced the modern world. Carstensz Pyramid is the highest peak in the oceanic continent and one of the seven summits. This limestone massif rises out of a lush jungle, and one of the worlds most profitable and secretive gold mines.

This expedition, in West Papua a providence of Indonesia, is possibly the most exotic and unique of the seven summits. Without question an amazing and unforgettable adventure even for those not seeking to climb the seven summits. It is located on the island of New Guinea, and is the highest peak between the Himalayas and the Andes, as well as, the highest island peak in the world. This peak was first climbed in 1926 on an expedition led by Heinrich Harrer an Austrian mountaineer.

Carstensz-Pyramid Guided Climbing Trip Outline

We begin and end our trip in Bali, Indonesia. Bali’s beaches and night life are great for relaxing and celebrating before and after the trip. From Bali, we take a commercial flight to Timika on the West Papuan Island. From Timika we will fly by helicopter to the Yellow Valley and Carstensz base camp.

Once in basecamp we prepare to climb. Often the morning following our arrival we will make our summit bid. We should be prepared to fly directly off the mountain following our summit. Often we have a few hours rest before jumping on our flights back to Bali.

THE CLIMB

The rock on Carstensz is limestone, which is quite grippy, even when wet. The route is fixed with ropes and is climbed by using an ascender to protect you against a fall. These two factors make it possible to climb in almost any weather.

The standard route has a rock rating of approximately 5.6 and is up the featured north face to the ridge. As we travel along the ridge we encounter a deep gap nearly 60’ across. Luckily this gap is fixed with cables to assist in our crossing. This used to be a tyrollean traverse, where you clipped in and pulled yourself across. That was a challenging and time consuming endeavor, so now it’s what the local guides have dubbed the “Sky Bridge”. The sky bridge is three tight cables; one cable to balance on and the other two, a few feet higher to clip to and use as hand rails. The new system is quick and fun, and for some a bit intimidating.

The Summit is a small rock perch with views of the vast surrounding jungle, the ocean and the juxtaposition of the nearby gold mine. After a few pictures and a few minutes to relish in our accomplishment, we will descend the way we came up. Using a combination of repelling and down climbing, attaching our ascenders as back up we will make our way back to base camp. The climb basecamp to basecamp takes anywhere between 8-10 hours round trip.

TREKKING OPTION

We have numerous times, also climbed Carstensz by trekking into base camp instead of flying. This is a 5-6 day trek through the jungle and across a 10,000’ plateau to our basecamp at the base of the mountain. This is an arduous trek, with mud and rain to deal with on most days.

Our trek is supported by local porters from the Dani and Mani tribes. Working with these people is the most rewarding and fascinating parts of trekking in. We start in the village of Sugapa, which is access by a small aircraft on a dirt runway.

Please inquire about trekking date and prices.

This expedition, in West Papua a providence of Indonesia, is possibly the most exotic and unique of the seven summits. Without question an amazing and unforgettable adventure even for those not seeking to climb the seven summits. It is located on the island of New Guinea, and is the highest peak between the Himalayas and the Andes, as well as, the highest island peak in the world. This peak was first climbed in 1926 on an expedition led by Heinrich Harrer an Austrian mountaineer.

TRIP OUTLINE

We begin and end our trip in Bali, Indonesia. Bali’s beaches and night life are great for relaxing and celebrating before and after the trip. From Bali, we take a commercial flight to Timika on the West Papuan Island. From Timika we will fly by helicopter to the Yellow Valley and Carstensz base camp.

Once in basecamp we prepare to climb. Often the morning following our arrival we will make our summit bid. We should be prepared to fly directly off the mountain following our summit. Often we have a few hours rest before jumping on our flights back to Bali.

The rock on Carstensz is limestone, which is quite grippy, even when wet. The route is fixed with ropes and is climbed by using an ascender to protect you against a fall. These two factors make it possible to climb in almost any weather.

The standard route has a rock rating of approximately 5.6 and is up the featured north face to the ridge. As we travel along the ridge we encounter a deep gap nearly 60’ across. Luckily this gap is fixed with cables to assist in our crossing. This used to be a tyrollean traverse, where you clipped in and pulled yourself across. That was a challenging and time consuming endeavor, so now it’s what the local guides have dubbed the “Sky Bridge”. The sky bridge is three tight cables; one cable to balance on and the other two, a few feet higher to clip to and use as hand rails. The new system is quick and fun, and for some a bit intimidating.

The Summit is a small rock perch with views of the vast surrounding jungle, the ocean and the juxtaposition of the nearby gold mine. After a few pictures and a few minutes to relish in our accomplishment, we will descend the way we came up. Using a combination of repelling and down climbing, attaching our ascenders as back up we will make our way back to base camp. The climb basecamp to basecamp takes anywhere between 8-10 hours round trip.

Itineraries

Day 1

Arrive Kathmandu and transfer to hotel

Day 2

Rest, Briefing, Gear check, and other preparations

Day 3

Fly to Pangboche 12,900′ (Stay in Tea House)

Day 4

Short day hike and afternoon visit Lhama Geshi

Day 5

Trek to Pheriche 13,900’ (Stay in Tea House

Day 6

Acclimatization hike and return to Pheriche

Day 7

Trek to Lobuche 16,100’ (Stay in Tea House

Day 8

Trek to Gorek Shep 16,860’ (Stay in Tea House

Day 9

Climb Kala Patar 18,200′ and then to Base Camp 17,600′

Day 19 - 13

Base camp Rest and acclimatization and Puja

Day 14 - 17

Acclimatization climb of Lobuche East 20,075 with high camp at nearly 19,000′

Day 18 - 22

Return to Base Camp Rest and prep

Day 23 - 30

Rotation through Ice Fall, CI, CII, and CIII (See Climbing Route for Detail)

Day 31 - 46

Weather window summit push

Day 47-50

Return to Base

Day 51-52

Fly by Helicopter to KTM

Day 53-54

Rest and Celebrate KTM

Day 55

Fly home

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