• Trip Overview
  • The Royal Trilogy
  • Example Trips
  • FAQ
  • Book Now

So often we are asked, “I want a week long Alps classic… a little snow, a little rock, huts, trams… get an idea of the whole area and have a great adventure; what’s possible?” – Absolutely!

Are you in for a treat. With flexibility like that you are sure to be thrilled and we can orchestrate an excellent adventure that suits your desires, skill range and time. Based out of Chamonix, we have easy access to the heart of the Alps where a quick tram ride brings you to such rock and alpine classics that dreams are made and realized on.

 

The Royal Trilogy

Of all the classic Alps trips that we have been asked about it is the trilogy of Mt Blanc, the Matterhorn and The Eiger. Three great peaks steeped in history and mountaineering fascination. A dream of many an Alpinist to challenge oneself upon each of these peaks in ones lifetime and a great achievement to have at least tried let alone stand upon all three summits.
If one is ready and the weather and conditions are favorable we have many times been able to climb all three in a ten day period including acclimatization and traveling. It has been done and will be done again but giving a few extra days for weather and rest certainly ups the chances of success and gives us a chance to really showcase this wonderful adventurous and cultural arena – and so we offer you ‘ The Royal Trilogy’, a full 13 day trip will give you the best chance possible to complete this audacious adventure.

Time is precious, think about what you want to do and ask us for any advise. This will truly be an outstanding feather in the cap of any alpinist.

Alpine Classics Example Climbs

  • Cosmique arête .(5.5 rock, snow, exposure)
  • Midi/ Plan traverse
  • W ridge Rochfort (exposed ridge traverse, fantastic)
  • Dente de Giante (5.9, without using the fixed lines – uber classic!)
  • Briethorn half traverse (mixed rock and snow to Altitude)
  • Pollux and Castor (steep rock on one and steep snow on the other — perfect twins)
  • Monta Rosa (A five summated massif bordering Switzerland and Italy, sure to have something to ‘peak’ your interest)
  • Dente Blanche (a remote pyramidal peak, classic of the Alps)

 

While the difficulty of climbing required on every trip is different, there are some basic skills that are required on any climbing trip. Every climber needs to be able to put on their own equipment correctly, as well as have basic understanding of climbing jargon adequate to follow your guides directions. Each climber needs to be able to tie a figure eight rethread knot as well as a clove hitch, and have basic belay and rappel experience.
If we are on glacier during the trip, you should have previous experience using crampons and ice axe, as well as training on self arrest. Crevasse Rescue training, while not required on every trip is a good skill every climber should have in their tool box.
This stuff can all be learned in a day or two out with an ITCOG guide or one of our colleagues. Get in touch and set up a training class today.

Each climb has a technical grade ranging from class 1 (hiking) to class 5 (technical rock climbing). Most of our Alpine offerings start at Class 3, which is described as scrambling on rock with the use of both feet and hands. Being comfortable moving in this terrain while being short roped or coached by a guide is our base line.
Many of our Alpine climbs require 5th class climbing, described as technical rock climbing. Terrain where you would not want to fall without a rope. The class is then divided by grades: 5.0 to 5.10 for example. You will need to climb proficiently at the grade of the objective for which you are signing up for. For example: The Matterhorn is rated 5.4, you will need to move at a good steady pace for 8-12 hours , up and down in 5.4 terrain. (please check out our climbing grades comparison chart at the end of this document.)

Most Summit days are big! On our alpine climbs you can expect to be moving at a steady pace for 8 to 14 hours. That’s a big time difference, I know! But that ultimately depends on you! A good guide won’t waste time, he/she sets good pacing and route finding sure! but your fitness and skill level will be the biggest determinate between a big and a huge day. Ultimately speed is safety. The longer you are out the more tired you become. Standard times on mountains are always a consideration and are generally adhered to.
A positive attitude, which includes being mentally prepared goes a long way in the mountains. But determination will only get you so far. I always ask people what their average week of exercise looks like, and what is their biggest day of exercise in the past year. I look for a regular exercise program of 2-3 days a week and many weekends. Having a big activity like; a big hike or a long run, or past experience Alpine climbing and mountaineering are good indicators for adequate fitness.

Many of our alpine climbs are above 14,000 feet. At these elevations the lack of oxygen getting into your lungs with each breath is a factor when considering fitness. The single greatest thing you can do to improve your performance at altitude, is to show up with a
strong heart! If you show up cardio fit. You should be pushing your cardio in the months and weeks prior to your climb. Your strong heart and lungs will adapt to altitude better than they otherwise would.

We have lot’s of experience helping people get fit for trips. The last thing in the world you want is for your fitness to stop you from doing your trip of a life time. We are happy to work with you to establish a training program that fits your goals and lifestyle. If you can make it to Salt Lake City, we would love to take you out and give you an idea of where you are at with your climbing ability and skills, as well as your over all fitness. Don’t forget if you have different abilities or a different agenda, we are always happy to do a private trip for you and your group.

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